What’s The Rush?
Around the time of the harvest, when My Babito and I were dating for the first time, we would hear my in-laws eagerly discussing making plans to visit Julian – home of all things Apple-most notably pie. Twenty some years later we still had yet to make it up there. It was around then when we realized how good an idea it would be if we combined wine with apples because let’s face it – who doesn’t love a nice hot slice of pie?However we were inspired by wine to cross this item off our bucket list.
This region consists of California’s North Coast, San Francisco, Sierra Foothills, Central Coast and South Coast AVA regions. The whole area lies in the foothills of San Diego County.
What does an AVA mean? American Viticultural Area (AVA) is a designated wine grape-growing region in the United States, providing an official appellation for the mutual benefit of wineries and consumers. The sole purpose for these Super AVAs is that counties can legally source grapes from any one of these to make wine. Producers can legally label it with a county name as long as a certain % of grapes sourced from the AVA is from it.
Though you may find it surprising, there is still much land to develop in this Southern region. Between the counties of Santa Ana, Riverside and San Diego, only parts of them are part of the South Coast AVA. The Temecula sub-AVA – famous for being one of California’s leading wine producers in southern regions – can be found here. Although Julian makes everyone in this post-Gold Rush mining town think of apples, vineyards have been side by side with orchards since the 1800s. These miners probably needed additional alcohol to get through the arduous days of work. I’m going to explain why now.
With the completion of my last Diploma Level 4 unit 3 exam, Babito felt sorry for me and took me out of town on a weekend vacation. I wasn’t complaining though when he surprised me with a road trip up to Julian, CA – it’s one of those small towns on the outskirts of Orange County– just about an hour away. Once we arrived, it didn’t take long before I fell head over heels in love with this typical town; trees growing haphazardly along the winding streets and houses that appeared frozen in time make it feel like something straight out of Disney World. We drove around until we found one vineyard after another located just outside Julian– but they were right next door to each other!
In every travel post I write, I strive to not only provide accurate information but also to offer you an idea of what to anticipate from your trip. Traveling is an adventure in discovering and comprehending the world through the eyes of others. In this section, I’ll compare apples to apples and open up different doors in Julian and its sister region, Romona, during the 2020 pandemic.
Julian
The American astronomer Carl Sagan was quoted as saying, “If you want to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe.” I have to admit that I make a homemade pie and will agree. Julians is proud to be associated with America’s signature dessert, but this Historical Landmark community is much more. The town is an authentic throwback to the old west, with many of its original buildings still standing. In fact, we met many locals who were born there and have no plans to leave.
In the 1800s, miners founded this settlement in hope of striking gold when the first Lottery was established. The Cuyamaca Mountains are an hour away from San Diego and because there is snow in these high-reaching peaks, its name means behind the clouds. This place can get pretty hot or blistering cold so most people don’t come here for vacation – although I bet everyone would be begging to stay if they knew how great life could be here! My trip lasted forever with my drowsiness kicking in which didn’t help me much at all. But when we finally arrived, it felt like we had reached our destination after so many hours on the road.
Julian Gold Rush Hotel
We arrived at our motel with my insides on fire, but I soon through a metamorphosis. If you’re looking for a time machine, look no farther than the unimaginatively called Julian Gold Rush Hotel. It is the only place in town that is a true Victorian treasure.
What intrigues me about this hotel is not just its authenticity, but also the fact that it was founded in 1887 as the Robinson Restaurant and Bakery by Albert and Margret Robinson. Albert was a former slave who came to Julian with the owner of his previous slave! During the Julian gold rush, the majority of San Diego County’s African-Americans lived in secluded Julian rather than San Diego City. Travelers would stop for a nice meal, a good night’s sleep, and the opportunity to speak with renowned people such as Admiral Nimitz, members of Congress, and the Scripps family. Celebrities continue to visit our tranquil enchanted retreat today.
Steve and Gig Ballinger own and operate the Victorian Bed & Breakfast, dubbed the “Queen of the Backcountry.” The Julian Gold Rush Hotel was restored for comfort and accommodation while retaining the original Victorian style and antiquities.
Few B&Bs serve a full breakfast every morning in the homey dining Parlor, which may include a seasonal main course, freshly baked bread, cereals, and local fruit depending on the day. You can get your fix of bottomless coffee here.
Don’t expect “High Tea,” but an afternoon and nightly tea is traditionally served in the front room to the beat of 1920s music.
The property is a maze. Beyond the main home and upstairs rooms, there are guest cottages with courtyard views and floral gardens, reminiscent of the book “The Secret Garden.”
# 18 The Honeymoon Suite!
The rooms are small but lovingly appointed, with hand made quilts, historic photos, antiques and cozy furnishings. As explained by our host, true to the 1800’s, there isn’t any TV, or radio, but should you absolutely need to be attached to your phone, they have free Wifi.
Since we had “The Suite” it felt spacious….
The full-size bed and pillows were created for comfort in the Victorian era, but it didn’t matter to me because it was absolutely fascinating.
Ladies, your little boudoir, with restricted lighting, but you’ll only seem hotter!
After catching the atmosphere, it was time for the main reason for the trip….Wine! Julian’s brand is Apples, although I believe his private label is wine.
Before I take you on the Julian/ Ramona wine tour, I’d like to say a few things to anyone interested in exploring a growing wine region. If you prefer branded wines, you may find the wines in this region to be a little embryonic, rustic, and astringent. However, if you are an experimentation drinker, prepare for a rude awakening. To put it frankly, the grapes picked from these San Diego county locations can taste sour and raw. Locals, on the other hand, will enjoy these wines with pride and pleasure. It’s quite thrilling to visit winemaking regions and see how they’re rematerializing their potential. You gain a great sense of community pride. Menghini Winery was our first destination.
Menghini Winery
For the record, this winery is quite lovely. The image above depicts their modest tasting room. These are the types of rooms that are common in this section of the county.
As we entered, we noticed two women chatting in lounge chairs without masks. They appeared to be either employees of the winery or neighbors hanging around. Because every seating area was cordoned off, you had to flag down someone to get to their 4ft. bar. When we were eventually answered, we were told that three wines were available for tasting, that wines are sampled outside in their backyard property, and that we needed to bring our own glass inside to acquire the next pour. We were then taken on a tour of their wineries in the outback. It was like picking a park bench.
Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Muscat Canelli were all sampled (aka Muscat a Petit Grains). Normally, it’s five tastings for $5, but for whatever reason, we only got three for $6. Are These Difficult Times? Rusty and Kerri, the owners, founded this establishment over two decades ago. With only 4000 cases produced per year, they are firmly planted (pun intended) in Julian. Locals and return visitors adore the wines.
Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, and Muscat Canelli were all sampled (aka Muscat a Petit Grains). Normally, it’s five tastings for $5, but for whatever reason, we only got three for $6. Are These Difficult Times? With only 4000 cases produced per year, they are firmly planted in Julian. Locals and return visitors adore the wines. Instead of these wines, their wine menu includes different styles of these grapes.
Menghini Wine Menu
Sauvignon Blanc Grape:
Origen is Bordeaux, France. This white grape has a high acidity, is very aromatic, has a lot of citrus, possibly some ripe peaches or apricot, and a grassy, spicy capsicum finish.
Melighini Sauvignon Blanc:
On the nose, it was difficult to extract nuances from the glass, but I did eventually detect citrus and candlewax? On the palate, there’s a burst of mouthwatering lemons, followed by a flush of bitter rind on the short finish such as a limoncello.
Zinfandel Grape:
Origin: Italy, also known as Primitivo. This red grape is most widely planted in the world by Italian immigrants in California. On the nose, it has spicy jammy red and black fruit, as well as smoked BBQ Jerky. Its expressive fruit is augmented on the palate by high alcohol, sugar, and tannins, which can creep a little high as well. It tastes like wine.
Menghini Zinfandel: On the nose, there’s a strong aroma of tart cherries and sweaty saddlebags. The same red tart fruit flavors linger on the palate. I was trying to figure out which one it was. The finish is cherry cough syrup without the cherry cough medicine. Consider taking a spoonful of cough medicine during flu season.
I was rooting for the Muscat Canelli at this point because I knew it would be a nice palate cleanser in addition to the other two.
Muscat Canelli:
This white grape, which is Greek in origin, goes by many different names. Canelli is the Italian reference, but it’s best known for Muscat a Petit Grains around the world. This is your grape if you can imagine a very fertile woman with many different clones of children. She’s stunning, voluptuous, and incredibly expressive on the nose and palate. She enjoys changing her clothes because she is available in white, gray, brown, and black. Sugar, fruit, and acid are always abundant in this matriarch.
Melghini Canelli
It was a lovely wine. It wasn’t as fragrant as you might expect. Perhaps the bottle had been left open for too long. Muscat has no regard for shelf life.
For what it’s worth, I don’t want to undervalue the effort they’ve put into their product. The wines, however, still taste like they were created in the 1800s.
It was one of the quickest tastings I’ve ever done; parking, tasting, paying, and leaving all took less than 10 minutes! I appreciate the pleasant experience I had with Babito. I wish I had spoken with the owners to learn more about their intentions for future production. Though I believe they are in a comfortable position and that change is unlikely. Maybe?
Volcan Mountain Winery was the other winery I planned to visit on the same road, but they were closed. Because there are few options in these economic times, we return to town. Why not the legendary Julian Beer Co. with hunger in our stomachs and a need for additional drinks?
Julian Beer Co.
This laid-back feeling is only available when you want to take in what was and is on Julian drag street. With three buildings and only one remaining occupied, it’s hard to imagine why they’re still a local favorite. Once a vibrant gathering spot for live music by well-known musicians, large concerts, and festivals, the mood has all but vanished. Fortunately, the main structure remains open for delicious house-made outdoor BBQ cuisine (which is fired up in their outdoor smoker every morning), local craft beer on tap, and limited wines. A polite hush falls over us as we stand around waiting to order drinks at the cash register – an unspoken agreement between strangers that there are no strangers here.
I gazed around at antique artifacts from the past as well as a flat-panel TV that was entirely dark, but you could still imagine the pulsating energy that once existed.
I hoped to stop at Volcan Mountain Winery after Menghini Winery, but they were closed, as I previously stated. Fortunately, Julian Beer Co. provided a range of their wine. I was excited to analyze the wine and possibly get a solid glass of nice wine. I was overjoyed to order a glass of Volcan Mountain Winery Sauvignon Blanc and relax on their people-watching balcony. I’m not sure how anyone can justify cultivating Sauvignon Blanc in Julian. The Sauvignon Blanc grape has been separated in Julian between Melghini and Volcan Mountain wineries.
Do you think you can’t cultivate a cool climate grape in a hot climate, guys? Please share your thoughts with me. Needless to say, I was batting 0 for pleasant wines this afternoon. I was frustrated because I couldn’t finish the Volcan Mountain Sauvignon Blanc.
We continue on to the next reputable establishment in town, Blue Door Winery.
Blue Door Winery
The winery gained notoriety for being a modern winery that has grapes coming from both San Diego and Santa Barbara Counties in California. This creates high quality wines ranging from refreshing reds to fruity whites, which they offer at very affordable prices. If you’re looking for a small town gem tucked away among the vineyards, then this is it – just don’t forget to try their delightful homemade sangria made of only fresh locally harvested grapes! It may seem too good to be true but we can come here conveniently walking across the street next door at the Julian Hotel right next door!
Gabby was a lively host. It was formed by two best friends who moved to the old town from Arizona. Fast forward to today, and this tasting establishment is now run by a husband and wife team. I finally had a glass of good red wine here. I believe they understand wine, and you can obviously taste the skill of their winemaker, Marc Hashhagen.
The Merlot is loaded with blueberries, chocolate, spicy spices, potting soil, and bitter black walnut. Though I wouldn’t call it aged, it was my first taste of something worth drinking all afternoon. Although you couldn’t taste anything inside, she made the exterior feel like an outdoor living room.
We wanted to go away from the crowds of visitors and explore a bar where residents go after freshening ourselves in our room. We were fortunate to be routed to the town’s American Legion by asking around! No membership is required, and they will gladly welcome you if you are fortunate enough to receive the inside scoop on this hidden gem. How close to home is the vibe? Let’s just say I was able to smoke a stogie without hesitation.
American Legion
Babito ordered classic cocktails made with off-the-shelf spirits. I drank a couple of glasses of Franzia red wines with my Romeo & Julieta stogie. We weren’t the best match, but as we chatted with the regulars who met up every day, we felt right at home. Before we go to sleep, we make one last stop at Romano’s Ristorante.
Romano’s
As our final destination of the night, we made reservations at Romano’s, the most popular restaurant in town. We made a reservation not because we expected it to be fully packed, but because we were afraid that any restaurant would close early these days.
This restaurant truly honors my Italian heritage. It has been in the family since the 1920s, throughout Prohibition. Antonino Romano, a Sicilian immigrant, established his first restaurant in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Romano’s Deli in Pacific Beach first opened in the 1960s and was famous for their pails of spaghetti and abalone frittata. Talk about Mafia chic! Romano’s Restaurant first opened its doors in Julian in 1982. The Romano family has owned the Julian restaurant since 2012, fifteen years after the family business migrated to lovely Julian. Check out our finish line lineup!
Facade Looks Like Nona’s Caza!
The freshly opened bottle of Chianti Classico from Siena, which was gleefully consumed by yours truly, was not featured.
Wild Funghi Pizza
Wild Carpaccio Salmon With Risotto And Melanza
Beef Tenderloin With Spaghetti Alla Marinara
We stumbled back to our cottage, bellies satisfied and livers satiated. Please do not disturb the ghost.
Before leaving town the next morning, I had two missions: one was to go for my run, and the other was to get pie. Even though the two don’t appear to go together, it works for me! In the magnificent foyer, Babito and I sipped fresh coffee and fancy teas before heading out.
Apple Alley
Julians, I believe, take the exact science of building the ideal pie seriously, as Carl Sagen stated. I expressed how much I enjoy making and eating pie, and leaving Julian without a slice would be criminal. Of course, I had to inquire about getting an actual pie made by the best baker in town. Thank goodness, as a writer, I always conduct extensive research on everything I review.
You’d think that with a reputation established on pie, anyone in this town could cook a good pie. Nope! I obtained the inside scoop for you by speaking with long-time residents. Many of the enticing aromas and “bakers” visible via panoramic windows while roaming about are merely for display. Most are trucked in from San Diego County and further afield, and some are even Costco products! Oh My!
Yes, Epicurean Angel will always deliver the truth to you, friends. Apple Alley is the place to be. It’s difficult to find because it’s tucked away in a narrow walking lane. There’s always a line, especially from well-known residents who would prefer not spread the word. Set your alarms early, for not only do they close at 3 p.m., but manufacturing of these delectable homemade pastries is restricted. Because everything is created on-site, once sold out, you’re out! I seldom stand in line for anything, but my palate was… speechless! Yum.
Julian Pioneer Cemetery “Haven Of Rest”
Even when I’m on the road, I make time for a quick workout. I couldn’t think of a better workout the next morning before leaving town than a run through the historic Julian Pioneer Cemetery. Yes, you read that correctly. It’s not that I’m “soul hunting” (LOL! ), but it’s a fantastic historical location! Although there is a website (I’m not making this up) called “Locate a Grave” for folks who find these sites to elevate their “spirits”
This is the final resting place of numerous Julian citizens from the 1800s to the present. As I ran through the twisting paths, I noticed that many of the gravesites were encircled with attractive fences and inventive markers. Julian’s various hills are home to the Cemetery, which is only a short walk from the town’s main strip. The ascent to the summit of the stairs provides a nostalgic scenic view of the Old West.
Julian Hotel Haunted Suite
Booking this Suite would be perfect for “FIND A GRAVE” enthusiasts!…. Word on the street is this suite #10 in the Julian Gold Rush Hotel is haunted by Boo!
Ramona, California, is the next stop for wine. Nobody would ever mention Romona and Wine in the same phrase. Prepare yourself for an eye-opening experience!
Ramona
Julian is merely a 30-minute drive away from this city. It will lead you to what is unmistakably a township’s “Main Street,” as practically all of the businesses are located there. In comparison to neighboring San Diego cities, the city is secluded and well-known for its award-winning studded horses. However, as an interesting fact, it was formerly the world’s turkey capital! Perhaps here is where the Indians got the turkeys for the Pilgrims’ first Thanksgiving at Plymouth. (Pardon my ramblings.) Aside from the turkeys and horses, I came for the wine.
Here’s just a taste of the wines I tasted with Babito in this quickly evolving wine region. He points out how difficult it would be to find words to describe Ramona AVA – the area where there are over thirty wineries spread across what could best be described as an open plain; however, he insists that it is one of his favorite spots for growing grapes. The variety might seem like something out of a kids’ book but then again maybe not so much? Everywhere you look people say they’re going to try everything – from pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon to viognier, malbec and tempranillo. On top of all these new innovations, their goal seems very clear: keep experimenting until they find themselves – or at least figure out what it means when someone says California Wine.
The first winery on my radar was La Finquita Winery…
This winery was inspired by Humphrey Bogart’s quote from the film Casablanca, when he is walking away with Claude Rains at the end of the film and says, “It’s Stuff What Dreams Are Made Of.”
Charlie and Jess Koeler worked in Ramona Valley at a tasting room/winery called Schwaesdall (perhaps German). On a subsequent date,
All in one night, Charlie and Jess Koehler professed their love of wine, owning a winery, and finally their love. That had to be a big bottle of wine! Although I’m not sure which came first, that’s a topic for another chapter. Wineries, on the other hand, are enticing and can bring out a guy’s romantic pimp. Charles only had to seal the deal with Jessica and marry the princess at that point. They bought their dream valley castle from their boss, Schwaesdall, in 2013.
That is what I mean when I say this winery is the result of a “Labor of Love.” The Koelhers handle everything from harvest to winemaking to the production line and distribution.
Let us thank the few amigos and familia who help them out.
NOTE: To be honest, I felt more pressure to follow what I call “COVID Etiquette” in Ramona than in Julian. Perhaps because we went to traditional wineries rather than tasting rooms. In any case, everyone has their own set of procedures. It can be perplexing at times, so always ask before becoming too comfortable. Many places now require reservations in order to ensure that capacity is not exceeded. The majority of the work is done by increment times.
La Finquita Winery
Luckily, I did RSVP because their website provides convenient time options. Their customer service is exceptional. You receive a prompt response regarding your reserved times, and if you have any questions or special requests, they are handled just as quickly via messenger.
We tasted the wines one at a time (20 in total!) I had to take a step back and be completely objective. I’m going to bet that the wines tasted one-dimensional, rustic, and really austere. The nuances of single varietal wines, as well as blends, were difficult to discern. Nonetheless, they appear to have a following and are poised to grow in popularity.
We were grateful for a brief conversation with Jess, who explained the overall vision for La Finquita. We sensed a genuine desire to produce great wines in the future, as well as a strong belief in the region’s ability to do so. She was honest in saying that they were still figuring out which grapes grow well in their soils. I’d like to return to La Finquita Winery in 5 years to see how they’ve changed. Whatever shape the winery takes, one thing is certain: they value their mission and, most importantly, each other.
I wouldn’t say Turtle Rock was on my bucket list, but I had heard a lot of good things about it.
They didn’t require a reservation and were also on their way to our stay at the San Vicente Resort.
Turtle Rock Ridge Winery
We were given free rein to choose where we wanted to sit. A waitress handed us our beverages – wine in disposable cups – after presenting us with the menu. I can’t tell if this wine was well-balanced because of its container, but for what it’s worth, there wasn’t anything special about it either way. However, one thing that they have been going for them is their willingness to invest time and resources into creating a relaxing atmosphere just right for enjoying the beautiful scenery surrounding them
However, Grant James Winery was the best choice for the entire weekend, or all period!
Grant James Vineyard
Click Here To Read My Entire Review
I usually leave hotel reservations to Babito, and I must admit that I was skeptical of the Ramona options. However, 98% of the time he scores a surprising discovery, and San Vicente Resort delivers. It was a fantastic throwback property with a room overlooking the golf course à la 1970’s retro.
The alcohol stocked in the mini bar with TV outfitted rooms and fancy dinners next door put me at ease; as did the courteous customer service desk downstairs. Grant James Vineyard, San Vicente Resort, and the people are the main reasons to visit Ramona, CA. And, if you love chocolate like me then head over to the Liquor Store down the street – they have literally every type imaginable! I believe that, like the “Find a Grave” devotees, there should be a “Find A Hot Chocolate” website as well!
What are my thoughts on visiting this area? Julian and Ramona are revealing themselves in relation to wine. Julian, I believe, is still set on apples, but Ramona is dead set on grapes. Julian will continue to profit from Costco pies, while Ramona will discuss their progress in emerging wine markets.
Visit for its historical significance, stay for the experience, and return to reimagine their possibilities. Making great pies, as Carl Sagen said, requires inventing the universe, but I say making great wines necessitates inventing the universe. What are your thoughts?
Ciao! I hope you enjoyed the article about Apples to Apples
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