Godeval means life & drink in Spanish
Have you heard of Godello?
All over Spain, old winemaking regions have been transformed. Grapes that were generally forgotten have been recovered, and despite the economic difficulties and political obstacles that have tormented the nation, thrilling benefits are emerging for consumers.
Here I’m evaluating the Godello grape one at the top regaining recognition. It’s a bodacious variety and I somewhat compare it to Viognier, though the two are certainly different.
Godello is a white variety of wine grape grown in northwestern Spain, in particular in Galicia. The Gouveio found in northern Portugal is thought to be the same grape variety. It produces fine white wines and yields the best results in Valdeorras on slate soils.
Typically it displays white fruits such as apples and pears, with citrus hints of limes and grapefruit, as well as delicate floral aromas of blossom and honeysuckle. Produces wines medium to high fruit intensity, and features subtleties of honey, cream, brioche, vanilla, hazelnuts, and sometimes even flint and white pepper.
Just a few decades ago, it had virtually disappeared from Spain. But a combined effort by a small number of growers not only saved Godello but also encouraged wine producers all over the northwestern part of the country to craft wines from it.
The Back Story
This exodus began in 1974 by Horcio Fernandez, the catalyst of the Godello REVIVAL project. The influence wasn’t difficult since he was the manager of the District Agriculture Office, an arm of the Spanish Government.
In 1986, Godeval was established to dedicate their production to the Godello grape. So much so that the winery took over the historic Xagoza medieval monastery and refurbished it. Part of it was converted into the winery and planted their own vineyards on the property.
Located in Valdeorras, whose name means “Valley of Gold”, is synonymous with Godello. It may have been the first grape-growing and wine-producing region in Galicia; and how the native grape Godello was named.
The loyalty to this grape has paid off for Godeval; by 2009 the winery expanded along with its vineyards to meet demand. It instituted the state of the art technology to refine production and to welcome visitors to explore this fascinating grape.
Godeval meaning life and drink in Spanish is an extraordinary pilgrimage in itself. Visits are by appointments and are truly an exciting thorough experience. Walkthrough rescued ancient south-facing vineyards. Old vines are beneficial to Godello helping the grape to retain acid and slowly develop complex flavors.
This wine displays a medium gold with a high-intensity nose of red delicious apples, ripe honeydew melon, and baked peach. Complemented with savory herbs of fennel and mashed mint, perfumed with honeysuckle and a hint of smoke.
On the palate it’s dry with medium acid medium+ alcohol and full body, the texture is oily with high intense flavors of ripe tree fruit, think harvest fruit, backed by melons, honey beeswax, and savory herbs, such a long finish. This is a very good wine. It’s immediately powerful and heavy perfumed. It suggests it’s evolving. It delivers fruit and a sophisticated palate of herbs and mineral core. The finish is succulent with lingering flavors and aromas.
Drink now, or it has excellent potential in the cellar. The flavors will only deepen and you will be well rewarded. Godeval is an example of a winery embracing the idea of why native grapes grow where they exist. It’s admirable to not give in to the fashion and trends of the world, and be distinct from cloned producers.
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